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Japan 2026

foursomething goes to Japan.
Tokyo · Hakone · Kyoto · Osaka

Oct 19 – Nov 1 13 nights Franco turns 40!
days to go

The Crew

Hugo
Research lead. Anime, fine dining, nightlife
Franco
Birthday boy (turning 40!). Pescatarian
Agata
Franco's partner. Pescatarian. Gym/fitness
The-Anh
Fashion, cooking, adventure

Proposed Itinerary

Tokyo
Oct 19–24
5 nights. Base: Shinjuku. Explore, eat, party. Franco's birthday dinner.
Hakone
Oct 24–26
2 nights. Ryokan + onsen. Mt Fuji views. Best autumn color of the trip.
Kyoto
Oct 26–29
3 nights. Machiya stay. Temples, early foliage, tea, Gion at night. Nara day trip.
Osaka
Oct 29–Nov 1
3 nights. Street food capital. Halloween party. Fly home Nov 1.
Open jaw: Fly into Tokyo Haneda, out of Osaka Kansai (KIX). Saves backtracking + a shinkansen ticket.
Itinerary flag: Kyoto's Jidai Matsuri + Kurama Fire Festival are on Oct 22 (during our Tokyo leg). Worth discussing whether to rearrange cities to catch these — they're among Kyoto's top festivals.

Day by Day

Tap a day to expand. This is a starting point — adjust based on group energy and weather.

DAY 1 Arrive Tokyo
Sun Oct 19
EveningLand at Haneda. Pick up Welcome Suica, withdraw yen at 7-Eleven ATM
DinnerOmoide Yokocho (Shinjuku) — yakitori alley. Pescatarian: grilled seafood skewers, edamame
StayShinjuku hotel. Early night — jet lag recovery
DAY 2 Classic Tokyo
Mon Oct 20
MorningSenso-ji Temple (Asakusa) — arrive by 8 AM for empty shots. Walk to Sumida River
LunchTsukiji Outer Market — sushi, tamagoyaki, grilled scallops. Pescatarian paradise
AfternoonteamLab Borderless (Azabudai Hills) — 2-3 hrs immersive digital art. Book ahead
EveningGolden Gai bar crawl (Shinjuku) — Albatross, The Open Book. ~280 tiny bars
DAY 3 Franco's 40th Birthday 🎉
Tue Oct 21
7:30 AMSumo morning practice at Tatsunami Stable (Ryogoku) — guided tour
MiddayStroll Ryogoku — Sumo Museum, chanko-nabe street
SunsetAIROS Skyview helicopter tour over Tokyo at golden hour
Pre-dinPrivate Japanese whisky tasting — 5 rare whiskies + paired bites
DinnerRyotei Kinsui (Hotel Chinzanso) — kaiseki, private room, garden views, birthday cake
NightGolden Gai → Bar Trench speakeasy → luxury karaoke
DAY 4 Anime, Fashion & Shopping
Wed Oct 22
MorningAkihabara — Radio Kaikan, Mandarake, Super Potato, Gachapon Hall. Hugo's paradise
LunchFuunji tsukemen (Shinjuku) — Michelin-quality dipping ramen. Arrive 11 AM
AfternoonHarajuku — Takeshita St, Cat Street vintage, Omotesando high-end. The-Anh's territory
EveningShibuya Crossing at dusk → izakaya dinner → Nonbei Yokocho drinks
DAY 5 Ghibli, Vintage & Last Tokyo Night
Thu Oct 23
MorningGhibli Museum (Mitaka) — tickets on sale Sep 10, 10 AM JST. Set an alarm!
AfternoonShimokitazawa — Flamingo, New York Joe Exchange, Stick Out. Vintage heaven
EveningOmoide Yokocho farewell dinner. Pack for Hakone
LogisticsSend luggage to Kyoto via Takkyubin (~£15/bag). Travel to Hakone with day packs
DAY 6 Hakone — Arrive & Onsen
Fri Oct 24
MorningRomancecar from Shinjuku (~80 min). Front car has panoramic Fuji views
ArriveBuy Hakone Free Pass (3-day, ¥7,500). Explore Hakone-Yumoto town
EveningCheck into ryokan. Kaiseki dinner (seafood-forward, naturally pescatarian). Private onsen soak
DAY 7 Hakone Loop & Fuji
Sat Oct 25
6-8 AMFuji viewpoint — best before clouds. October = possible first snow cap!
DayHakone Loop: Tozan Railway → Cable Car → Ropeway over Owakudani (black eggs!) → Lake Ashi pirate ship
AfternoonHakone Open Air Museum — outdoor sculptures + Picasso collection
EveningFinal ryokan dinner + onsen. Best foliage of the trip here (higher elevation)
DAY 8 Transit to Kyoto + Gion
Sun Oct 26
MorningOdakyu to Odawara → Shinkansen to Kyoto (~2 hrs). Book via SmartEX, QR boarding
AfternoonCheck into machiya. Nishiki Market — seafood skewers, yuba, hamo tempura
EveningGion evening walk — Hanamikoji-dori, Pontocho lantern-lit alley. Spot geiko 5-8 PM
DAY 9 Kyoto Temples & Sake
Mon Oct 27
5-7 AMFushimi Inari — thousand torii gates, nearly empty at dawn. Full hike 2-3 hrs
Late AMFushimi sake district — brewery tours + tastings at Gekkeikan Okura Museum
AfternoonKinkaku-ji (Golden Pavilion) → Philosopher's Path → Eikando (early autumn maples)
EveningTea ceremony at Maikoya (Gion) — includes kimono wearing
DAY 10 Arashiyama + Nara Day Trip
Tue Oct 28
Early AMArashiyama bamboo grove (before 8 AM) → Tenryu-ji Temple → Monkey Park (macaques + city panorama)
AfternoonTrain to Nara (30 min). Deer park, Todai-ji (world's largest wooden building), Kasuga Taisha lanterns
EveningReturn to Kyoto. Splurge kaiseki at Mitsuyasu (1 group/day, 150-year-old machiya)
DAY 11 Transit to Osaka + Dotonbori
Wed Oct 29
MorningJR Special Rapid Kyoto → Osaka (30 min, ¥580). Check into Namba hotel
AfternoonOsaka Castle grounds → Shinsekai (retro Showa-era district, Tsutenkaku Tower)
DinnerDotonbori crawl — Takoyaki Wanaka, Mizuno okonomiyaki (seafood), Kushikatsu Daruma
NightAmerikamura bars — Bar Nayuta, Bar Mustang
DAY 12 Explore & Pre-Halloween
Thu Oct 30
MorningOptional: Uji day trip (matcha town, Byodo-in Temple, 30 min) or sleep in
AfternoonShinsaibashi arcade, Den Den Town (Osaka's Akihabara — anime/manga shops)
EveningHalloween costume shopping — Amerikamura vintage + Don Quijote for accessories
NightPre-Halloween club night — Giraffe Japan (multi-floor, rooftop)
DAY 13 Halloween in Osaka 🎃
Fri Oct 31
MorningSleep in. Late brunch at Kuromon Market — fresh sashimi, grilled fish, tamagoyaki
OptionalUniversal Studios Japan Halloween Horror Nights (starts 6 PM). Buy tickets ahead
EveningDotonbori Halloween street party — thousands in costume at Ebisubashi Bridge
NightAmerikamura Halloween — DJs, costume contests, club crawl. Last hurrah!
DAY 14 Fly Home
Sat Nov 1
MorningNankai Rapi:t Namba → Kansai Airport (~35 min, ~¥1,270)
FlightDepart KIX for London. Sayonara!

Tokyo · 5 nights

Where to Stay: Shinjuku

Best transit hub in Tokyo (reach anywhere in <30 min), densest nightlife (Golden Gai, Kabukicho), walking distance to everything.

Hotel Gracery Shinjuku
Godzilla on the roof. 5 min to Golden Gai. ~£80-130/room/night
9h Nine Hours (capsule)
Sci-fi minimalist pods. ~£30-40/night. One night for the experience

Must-Eat

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Omakase sushi — Sushi Tokyo Ten (25 courses, ~¥9,000), Sushi Ginza Onodera (1-star). Perfect for pescatarians
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Ramen — Konjiki Hototogisu (Michelin star, Shinjuku), Fuunji (tsukemen). Ask for fish broth (gyokai) for pescatarian option
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Izakaya alleys — Omoide Yokocho (Shinjuku), Hoppy Street (Asakusa), Nonbei Yokocho (Shibuya)
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Wagyu — Nakahara (A5 yakiniku zenith), Yoroniku (Michelin 2-star) — for Hugo + The-Anh

Nightlife

  • Golden Gai — 280+ tiny bars, 6-8 seats each. Cover ~¥500-1,000. Start ~9pm
  • Womb (Shibuya) — legendary techno/house, Asia's largest mirror ball
  • Sound Museum Vision — one of Japan's largest clubs
  • Karaoke — Big Echo or Joysound, ~¥2-3k for 2hrs with drinks

Activities

  • teamLab Borderless — Azabudai Hills. Book ahead. ~£25pp
  • Ghibli Museum — Tickets on sale Sep 10 at 10am JST
  • Shibuya Crossing — Starbucks above for the view
  • Harajuku + Shimokitazawa — Fashion, vintage, thrift
  • Akihabara — Anime, gaming, arcades

Fashion & Shopping — Hugo + The-Anh

Designer Flagships (Aoyama/Omotesando)
  • Comme des Garcons, Undercover, Sacai
  • Visvim (Nakameguro flagship with cafe)
  • Issey Miyake, Yohji Yamamoto
Vintage & Thrift (Shimokitazawa)
  • Flamingo, New York Joe Exchange
  • Stick Out (everything ¥800!)
  • BAZZSTORE (¥1-5k range)
Japan-Exclusive Value
  • Uniqlo Ginza (12 floors, Japan-only lines)
  • GU (Uniqlo's trendier sister, barely exists outside Asia)
  • BEAMS Plus, United Arrows, Nano Universe
Sneakers
  • atmos (Harajuku, Japan-exclusive collabs)
  • KICKS LAB (Harajuku, Nike specialist)
Tax-free tip: Show passport at checkout, 10% tax deducted instantly. Min ¥5,000/store/day. Make big purchases before Nov 1 — the system changes that day.
Events while we're there: Tokyo Ramen Festa (Oct 23-26, Komazawa Park, 36 vendors, ¥1,100/bowl) · Ikebukuro Halloween Cosplay Fest (Oct 24-26, 20k+ cosplayers)

Hakone · 2 nights

Getting There

  • Romancecar from Shinjuku — 80 min, ~¥2,470. Front car panoramic Fuji views
  • Hakone Free Pass (3-day, ¥7,500) — covers round trip + all loop transport
  • Book Romancecar 1 month ahead via e-Romancecar

Mt Fuji Views

  • October = excellent visibility (cool, dry air)
  • Best at 6-8 AM before clouds roll in
  • May see the first snow cap!
  • Top spots: Ropeway, Lake Ashinoko, Sengokuhara pampas fields

Ryokan (traditional inn + hot springs)

2 rooms at one ryokan. All options below are tattoo-friendly with private onsen.

Gora Kansuiro (recommended)
Historic. In-room private onsen. Public baths too. ~$340-770/night per room
Hakone Ginyu (splurge)
Every room has terrace onsen with valley views. ~$490-1000+/night

Kyoto · 3 nights

Stay in a Machiya

Traditional Kyoto townhouse — tatami rooms, sliding doors, garden. Whole house for 4. Book by July 2026.

Kyoto Machiya Fukune (top pick)
Private onsen bath, garden, in-house kaiseki dinner option. ~$400-700/night
Gion Kawasemi
2-bedroom in heart of Gion. Semi-open-air onsen, Zen rock garden. ~$400-500/night
Kiyu Machiya (value)
100-year-old near Nijo Castle. Authentic experience at ~$250-400/night
Iori Machiya Stay
11 historic properties. Cypress/cedar baths. ~$350-600/night

Must-Do

  • Fushimi Inari — Before 7 AM (24/7, no crowds)
  • Arashiyama — Bamboo grove + monkey park
  • Kinkaku-ji — Golden Pavilion
  • Gion at dusk — Geisha district evening walk
  • Nishiki Market — "Kyoto's kitchen", seafood heaven
  • Nara day trip — 30 min train. Deer park + Todai-ji
  • Tea ceremony — Maikoya (Gion) with kimono wearing

Fall Foliage

Late Oct = early foliage. You'll see leaves starting to turn — greens shifting to yellow, scattered reds.

Best early spots: Sanzen-in (Ohara), Kurama-dera, Takao area temples. All higher elevation = earlier color.

Night illumination: Kodai-ji Temple starts autumn light-up in late Oct. ¥600

Kyoto Shopping

Ichizawa Shinzaburo Hanpu — Century-old handmade canvas bags (cult following). Unique souvenir
Gion crafts — Lacquerware, fans, Nishijin-ori silk textiles
T.T. (Taiga Takashi) — Workwear menswear in Gion

Osaka · 3 nights

Where to Stay: Namba

Walking distance to Dotonbori, Shinsaibashi, Amerikamura. 30 min from Kyoto by JR Special Rapid (¥580).

Mimaru Osaka Namba (group pick)
Apartment-style, kitchen, 2 rooms. ~$30-40pp/night split 4 ways
KOKO Hotel Premier Namba
Stylish, great location. ~$50-60pp/night

Pescatarian Picks — Franco + Agata

  • Kuromon Market — Entoki Maguro (tuna specialist), Futomasa (grilled seafood), Kushisei (seafood skewers)
  • Endo Sushi — Standing sushi bar at the fish market. Locals' favourite, cash only
  • Harukoma Sushi — Legendary neighbourhood sushi, queues worth it
  • Kani Doraku — Giant crab sign on Dotonbori. All-crab menu, naturally pescatarian

Street Food Capital

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Takoyaki
Wanaka (Dotonbori) + Aizuya (original inventor, off the tourist trail)
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Okonomiyaki
Mizuno (Dotonbori) + Kiji (Umeda Sky Building, smaller queue)
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Kushikatsu
Daruma, Shinsekai. Ebi/fish for pescatarians. Never double-dip!
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Kuromon Market
Fresh sashimi, grilled seafood, tamagoyaki. Go early
Hidden gems: Ura-Namba (backstreet standing bars, locals only), Hozenji Yokocho (candlelit alley), Tenma/Tenjinbashi (longest shopping street in Japan, local food stalls)
Late night: Sarunosuke ramen (til 4 AM), Isomaru Suisan (24h seafood izakaya), Ichiran (24h tonkotsu ramen)

Nightlife & Bars

  • Bar Nayuta — Asia's Best Bars list. Craft cocktails in Amerikamura
  • Ura-Namba tachinomi — Standing bars with ¥300 drinks. Unique to Osaka
  • Jan-Jan Yokocho — Shinsekai's retro bar alley, ¥300 beers
  • Amerikamura — Vintage shops by day, bars + clubs by night
  • Giraffe Japan — Multi-floor club with rooftop, great for Halloween

Activities

  • Osaka Castle — Grounds are free, impressive stone walls. Skip inside (concrete replica)
  • Shinsekai — Retro Showa-era district, Tsutenkaku Tower, kushikatsu alley
  • Den Den Town — Osaka's Akihabara — anime, manga, retro games
  • CupNoodles Museum — Make your own custom cup noodle. Fun, ¥500
  • USJ Horror Nights — Optional Oct 31. Book ahead
Halloween (Oct 31): Osaka replaced Shibuya as Japan's biggest Halloween gathering after the Tokyo ban. Dotonbori + Ebisubashi Bridge = thousands in costume. Amerikamura clubs run Halloween parties all night.

Franco's 40th · Tokyo

Birthday Dinner Options

Franco + Agata are pescatarian — sushi/kaiseki are ideal. Book 2-3 months ahead.

High-end Sushi Omakase (pescatarian perfect)
15-20 courses at the counter. Sushi Tokyo Ten (~¥9,000) or Sushi Ginza Onodera (1-star). Book via TABLEALL
~¥9-30k pp
Ryotei Kinsui (top pick for group)
Kaiseki in private room, garden views, birthday cake + candles. Hotel Chinzanso. Naturally pescatarian
~¥15-30k pp
Sky Restaurant 634
Dining at 345m in Tokyo Skytree. French-Japanese fusion. Unbeatable views
~¥15-30k pp

Birthday Day Plan

7:30 AMSumo morning practice at Tatsunami Stable (guided)
MiddayRyogoku exploration — Sumo Museum, chanko-nabe
SunsetHelicopter tour of Tokyo (AIROS Skyview, ~¥21,000pp)
Pre-dinPrivate whisky tasting — 5 rare whiskies + paired bites
DinnerBirthday dinner (see above)
NightGolden Gai → Bar Trench speakeasy → luxury karaoke
Splurge stay: Park Hyatt Tokyo for birthday night — the Lost in Translation hotel. ~¥55-90k/night (or 35k Hyatt points). New York Bar on the 52nd floor.

Weather & What to Pack

CityHighLowRainVibe
Tokyo20-22°C13-15°C8-10 daysComfortable, light layers
Hakone15-17°C9-12°C12-15 daysCooler, bring mid-layer
Kyoto21-23°C12-14°C7-8 daysPleasant, crisp mornings
Osaka21-23°C13-15°C7-8 daysSimilar to Kyoto

Typhoon season is effectively over. Sunset ~4:40pm — plan outdoor sightseeing before 4pm.

Packing Essentials

Clothing
  • T-shirts + light sweaters/flannels (layering is key)
  • Packable rain jacket + compact umbrella
  • Fleece or light down for Hakone (3-5°C colder)
  • One smart outfit for birthday dinner
Shoes
  • Slip-on shoes — constant removal at temples, ryokan, restaurants
  • Comfortable walking pair (15-25k steps/day)
  • Bring a second pair for wet days

Events During Our Trip

Oct 22
Jidai Matsuri — Kyoto. 2km historical costume procession. One of Kyoto's three great festivals
Oct 22
Kurama Fire Festival — Kyoto (evening). Torch procession from 6pm. One of Kyoto's most dramatic events
Oct 23-26
Tokyo Ramen Festa — Komazawa Park. 36 vendors, ¥1,100/bowl
Oct 24-26
Ikebukuro Halloween Cosplay Fest — 20,000+ cosplayers. Oct 24 night is 18+ only
Late Oct
Kodai-ji Autumn Illumination — Kyoto. Night light-up of temple + gardens, ¥600
Oct 31
Halloween in Osaka — Dotonbori street party. Japan's biggest Halloween gathering

Flights

BA + Companion Voucher Strategy

Direct LHR → Haneda on BA (12h, 787 Dreamliner). Hugo has BA Avios + companion voucher (2-for-1 on Avios).

CabinAvios (one way)Return for 2 (w/ voucher)Taxes (both)
Economy38,500-44,000~77-88k Avios£400-600
Premium Economy55,000-85,250~110-170k Avios£500-800
Club World110,000-121,000~220-242k Avios£800-1,200
Open jaw: Fly into Tokyo (HND), out of Osaka (KIX). Saves a ¥14,000 shinkansen back to Tokyo.

Skip the JR Pass

Post-2023 price hike killed the value for a Tokyo-Kyoto-Osaka route. Your tickets total ~¥30-33k vs ¥50k for a 14-day pass. Only worth it if Hiroshima is added. Use SmartEX app to book individual shinkansen tickets with QR boarding.

Budget Estimate · per person

Flights (BA economy w/ Avios) £200-600
Tokyo accommodation (5 nights) £375-500
Hakone ryokan (2 nights) £275-550
Kyoto machiya (3 nights) £150-375
Osaka hotel (3 nights) £150-300
Transport (shinkansen + metro + Hakone pass) £300-400
Food (£50-80/day) £650-1,050
Activities + entrance fees £200-400
Total £2,300-4,175

Logistics

eSIM

Ubigi 20GB — ~$19 each

Docomo + KDDI network (best rural coverage for Hakone). 5G where available. Download before departure. Top up in-app if needed.

IC Card

Welcome Suica Mobile app (iPhone). Tap on/off all trains, buses, convenience stores. Set up before departure.

Cash

~45% cashless in 2026. Visa/Mastercard contactless for most things. Keep ¥5-10k cash for small shops, shrines, markets. 7-Eleven ATMs on arrival.

Luggage Forwarding (Takkyubin)

Send bags hotel-to-hotel (~£15/bag, next-day delivery). Tell reception by 4pm. Travel through Hakone with day packs only! Universally recommended on every Japan travel thread.

Essential Apps

  • Google Translate — camera mode + offline Japanese
  • SmartEX — shinkansen booking + QR boarding
  • NAVITIME — train routes + schedules
  • GO — taxi app (English, in-app payment)
  • Tabelog — Japan's Yelp (more trusted than Google)
The-Anh's Visa (Vietnamese passport): Japan visa required. Two options:
  • eVISA (recommended) — fully online at evisa.mofa.go.jp. ~2 weeks processing. £16 single entry
  • Embassy in-person — 101-104 Piccadilly. ~5 working days. By appointment
Documents: Passport (6mo+ validity), BRP/ILR, 3-month bank statements, flight + hotel bookings, daily itinerary.
Apply late July / early August 2026 (visa valid 3 months from issuance).
Pescatarian Tips (Franco + Agata): Japan is ideal — traditional cuisine is heavily seafood-based. Kaiseki, sushi, and market food are naturally pescatarian. Main pitfall: pork-based broths (tonkotsu ramen, some dashi). Useful phrase: "niku nashi de onegaishimasu" (no meat please). For ryokan kaiseki, notify at booking.
Quick Etiquette: No tipping (considered rude). Shoes off at temples, ryokan, many restaurants. Quiet on trains. No eating while walking. Onsen: wash thoroughly before entering. Tattoos: Private onsen (kashikiri) solves everything — we're booking one for the group.
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